EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS

NON-EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS

OWNER'S MAINTENANCE MANUAL

MCNAIR BUILDING CONSTRUCTION, INC.

(843) 681-9543 fax:(843)681-9556

e-mail: HHBUILDER@Hargray.com

Web-site: http://www.HHBuilder.com

P.O. Box 21468 Hilton Head Island, SC 29925

I. Maintenance Guidelines: General

1. GENERAL:

Maintenance is a critical and important part of owning a home. Maintenance is not covered by the Builder and is the responsibility of the Owner. In certain circumstances, maintenance services may be available at an additional cost if requested by the Owner. At the completion of the home, the contractor will provide a home owner's manual that includes many of the following items as it relates to the maintenance of the home in addition to the information provided herein:

2. ROOFING AND OTHER ASSOCIATED ITEMS:

Keeping your roof free of pine-straw is a very important maintenance item. Pine-straw typically falls year round but surges in the fall and spring. The main reason for cleaning the pine-straw from the roof is to prevent a build up of it behind fireplaces, skylights, valleys, or crickets which can backup the water from a rainstorm and cause failure of the flashing to do its job. Also if the pine-straw is allowed to sit on the flashed areas it can breakdown and cause further damage to the flashing and the silicone used to help seal your roof.

In cleaning the pine-straw from your roof do not use any type of rake, broom, or any object that might disturb the shingles or flashing. The best method is to carefully and lightly, blow it off or use your hand to pick it off, but do not blow around flashing and skylights.

Whenever a person is on a roof, it is very important to stay off of the ridges and valley shingles and flashing area. Walking on these areas can cause shingle to crack and leaks to occur. Do not allow inexperienced individuals on the roof without proper safety precautions and knowledge of these types of problems.

3. MILDEW AND MOLD ON EXTERIOR OF HOME:

It is also very important to maintain the exterior of the home by washing the exterior on a regular basis as needed. A significant food source for mildew is pollen. If pollen is left on any surface whether it is an Exterior Insulation Finish system, brick, cypress, or cedar surface, with adequate moisture and shade, mold will grow and spread. The best way to extend the life of the exterior finishes of a home, is with a regular washing (not high pressure). Consult a local paint store for the most current additives for proper washing, and suggestions as noted below. Mildew can grow on roofs and can be stimulated by debris left on the roof. This lack of maintenance can also damage the roof's lifetime, and cause a staining on the roof.

II. Maintenance Guidelines: Interior Environment:

1. Temperature and Humidity:

Maintaining the temperature and the humidity in a home, is important to the longevity of the wood floors, doors, trim, rate of expansion and contraction of many materials in a home, and indoor air quality. Drastic changes in the internal environment of a home is not recommended.  We recommend you consider options to maintain the indoor humidity levels to no higher than 45%.  We offer such optional additional control systems for your HVAC and strongly encourage their use. 

2. Maintenance and Warranty Brochures on appliances and other special items:

All readily available maintenance procedures for appliances, cultured marble, acrylics, floorings, plumbing and door hardware, plumbing fixtures, mirrors, glass, and other materials are provided with the home owner's manual if available. Please review these brochures and familiarize yourself with proper operation and maintenance guidelines and suggestions.

3. Wood Flooring, Vinyl, and Tile Damage::

A 200 pound man wearing men's dress shoes with a regular heel will exert less than 30 lbs. pressure per square inch. However, the latest ladies' high fashioned, thin heels, known as stiletto heels, can seriously damage all types of flooring. A 110 Lb. woman wearing these shoes exerts in excess of 1,000 Lbs. pressure per square inch. These shoes can dent hardwood floors, Chip ceramic tile, puncture carpet and pad, and dent Vinyl flooring. This is the return of a problem that our industry encountered 20 years ago. It was not then, nor is it now, considered to be an manufacturing defect of floor covering materials by any of the floor covering manufacturers. (See manufacturer or Builder for proper cleaners and recommended procedures).

III. Maintenance Guidelines: Exteriors

1. General

Mold and mildew are a black/gray, green, red or purple growth that can form at certain locations on the building. The growth of mold is more common in Southern climates but can occur anywhere. It is very important to wash an exterior of a home regularly, and especially if mildew/mold is beginning to take hold the longer you may wait, the more it will spread and mix with the finish.

Always maintain a clean exterior free of vine growth and plant growth.  Plants too closed to the exterior structure of the home can create a restriction of air circulation around the materials of the home and thereby contribute to mold and mildew growth. The look of vines and other plant materials may be nice, but the damage caused by such a look can be serious to the water proof barrier, window seals, and seals between similar and dissimilar materials, while creating a prime environment for mold and mildew.

2. Description of Mildew and Mold:

· Mildew is a fungus that spreads as microscopic spores are carried by the wind. When the spores land on a surface, they feed either on the surface itself or on organic airborne dirt and pollen that has accumulated on the surface.

· The growth of mildew/mold is encouraged by moisture, warmth, lack of air circulation and organic nutrients, and darkness. (North elevations of buildings are susceptible in particular.) 

· Since the spores travel through the air, their behavior tends to be erratic. During rainy periods, the mildew can appear on previously unaffected - areas. To the unaided eye, mildew frequently resembles dirt.

· Mildew/mold likes warm, moist, shady locations, such as under eaves, near or behind bushes, shrubbery and trees and on soffit materials and walls that may be frequently shaded from the sun. Areas of mildew growth may often start on the Northern exposure side of the home, as would also occur on the Northern side of a tree in the forest. However, during humid and/or rainy periods, mildew/mold can obtain a foothold on virtually any exterior area.

3. Cleaning Recommendations for Mold and Mildew on Exteriors:

A. Option No. 1.

Pre-wet the area with clean water and wash with a solution of three (3) parts water to one (1) part household bleach.

Apply solution and let set of 15-20 minutes. Do not let solution dry on the surface. (A mild liquid detergent or soap may be added to this solution to improve cleaning ability.)

Use a soft bristle brush (nonmetal) and gently scrub the affected areas. Rinse thoroughly (use low pressure lawn and garden type hose) and repeat as needed.

Note: Water down all shrubbery, trees, and flowers near areas where the solution is being used. Wear protective clothing, eye-wear or other protection as be necessary, or employ a fully trained and qualified subcontractor. Before adding a liquid detergent to any household bleach solution read the labels to see if they contain ammonia or ammonium compounds. Bleaches should never be mixed with any detergents or cleaners containing ammonia. These mixtures can cause harmful vapors. Follow all instructions on the label.

B. Option No. 2

Use available commercial cleaners specifically formulated to clean mold and mildew from exterior or interior areas.

4. Considerations when avoiding mildew and other protocols to consider:

Mildew/mold is inorganic growth supported by warm, moist shady conditions, with the following contributing factors:

A. Climatic conditions: mold/mildew is more significant in a warm humid environment.  Consider your options to maintain interior humidity and temperatures.

B. Texture of finish: coarse textures will collect more airborne dirt with potential organic nutrients than finer textures.

C. The proximity of shrubbery and trees creates shade and reduces air circulation. This reduces natural evaporation.

D. Poor drainage from roofs: will maintain a high level of moisture in designated areas.

E. Internal moisture within perimeter wall systems: can cause elevated moisture levels contributing to mold and mildew growth. Any indication of leaks or moisture should be promptly inspected and sources of moisture leakage repaired. Northern exposure of exterior elements, tree coverage, and available pollen are significant contributors and should be looked at and considered if possible.

G. Many times landscaping sprinklers spray homes. This constant wetting condition can cause many problems. Encouragement of mold growth should be avoided.

H.  Maintaining clean surfaces thereby eliminating mold and mildew spores, dirt, pollen and other organic materials can significantly reduce the growth of mold and mildew.  Hire professionals to perform these cleaning duties if you are not able to keep up with the regular maintenance.

As indicated each of these conditions are contributing factors to mold/mildew and can affect your health and home environment. The climatic condition is an environmental issue however, the locations for trees and shrubbery in southern climates may be positioned away from the building, particularly the north elevation to promote natural air circulation for natural evaporation.

5. AIRBORNE: DIRT, DUST AND POLLEN

The accumulation of dust, dirt, and pollen in many locations can be a constant maintenance problem. Some contributing factors are as -follows:

A. site conditions - sources of dirt B. Soil splashing against the exterior of the siding, brick or finish system C. Climatic conditions (sun, rain, wind, or temperature extremes) D. Building location 1. City (high density- significant vehicular traffic and manufacturing with resultant airborne pollution) 2. Suburbs (low density-minor airborne pollution) 3. Near industrial manufacturing facilities (increasing amounts of pH imbalanced rain) 4. Ocean front, marsh front, or forest locations.

E. Amount of precipitation or rain (insufficient rainfall to be effective for normal self-cleaning action). Especially in cases of large soffit overhangs. F. Exhaust venting onto finish areas.

6. General Description of Airborne Contaminants:

In general wind born dust, pollen, and dirt is an inert accumulation that can contribute to the discoloration' of exterior insulation finish systems, typically; this is an aesthetic issue and will not affect the overall performance of the exteriors as it may relate to functionality (see above for mold and mildew considerations). If it is suspected that a "chemical contamination" is a contributing factor to the discoloration then a sample should be forwarded to an independent test lab to determine the contaminate. This information should then be reviewed with the specific exterior finish supplier or manufacturer.

7. Cleaning and Prevention Recommendations for airborne Contaminants:

A. Option No. 1

For dirt accumulation at the first floor/ foundation from splash-back due to uncontrolled drainage from the roof.

The cleaning procedure should consist of a household liquid detergent mixed with water. · Pre-wet the affected areas · Apply soapy water with soft bristle brush, scrub gently, let set for 15-20 minutes. (Do not let solution dry on surface.) · Rinse off thoroughly with low pressure garden type hose. Try the cleaning procedure in a small inconspicuous area to make sure it does not adversely affect the exterior finish system, whether it is brick, cypress, cedar, or "conventional" stucco or other types such as EIFS.

B. Option No. 2:

For more stubborn stains on stucco, wood siding or brick, it may be necessary to use a stronger cleaner formulated for the particular system.

8. Prevention of splash-back on Exteriors:

Remove a layer of soil next to the foundation and replace with a layer of crushed stone or other mulch material to prevent splash-back of water onto the building, or consider installation of a gutter or diverter.

9.- LAWN SPRINKLER OVER SPRAY

Reddish colored staining or whitish residue or etching, typically originates as a stain from excessive chemicals or impurities or iron oxides, contained in the local water supply. This discoloration is a result of a stain from sprinkler overspray on the exterior wall system. Sprinkler spraying onto exterior surfaces must be avoided.

10. Cleaning of Sprinkler Over-spray and vine growth:

These discolorations generally are an aesthetic issue only. Some stains may be removed with a commercial cleaner formulated for Exterior Insulation Finish Systems, but in other cases with wood, sand/mortar mix stucco "conventional", or other products, new stains or paints may be necessary. The longer these types of stains remain, the more difficult they will be to remove. In two-or three years, these stains may become permanent. If the stains are permanent, it is necessary to neutralize the stains to prevent bleed-through and re-coat the affected area.  Many people enjoy various vine growth to enhance the look of their home.  Vines can be very destructive to many types of finishes and products, including windows, wood siding, stucco finishes, brick, windows, doors, and on and on.   Do not let vines grow on the surface of a home, or let other plants restrict air circulation around the exterior finish products of the home.  Their roots grab tight and actually force materials apart causing warpage, leaks, and breakdowns in materials, or create a situation where mold and mildew can grab hold and readily spread.   

11. Recommendations to Avoid Lawn Sprinkler overspray

Readjust or relocate the sprinklers that are the cause of the over spray.

12.  Exterior conventional, hardcoat, and Insulation Stucco Finishes (commonly called EIFS)

    A.  General:

Many of McNair Construction homes built with stucco in the 1980's were strictly conventional stucco systems of metal lath, cementous base coats and finish coats.  In the early to mid 1990's the stucco applied was of the exterior insulation finish systems manufactured by Color Match, Color Guard, Ful-O-Mite, Dryvit, and others while adding caulking, felt-back layers, and mechanical fasters for additional protection during later McNair Construction EIFS installations.  In the mid and late 1990's McNair Construction began to incorporate the best of both the synthetic stucco systems and the conventional hard coat systems due to the market perceptions of EIFS and the real problems associated with installation, and system design occurring in the Wilmington area of North Carolina.  In these later 1990's updated systems, the base coat is applied over 2 layers of felt paper on metal lath with conventional hard coat cementous stucco.  The trim at windows, doors, drips and special details are of e.p.s. and applied to the base conventional coat.  The entire home is then finished with an acrylic stucco finish which is highly resistant to cracking, provides many color selections, and has great expandability.

    B.  Exterior Insulation Finish Systems (EIFS) and moisture intrusion:

Exterior Insulation Finish Systems are a monolithic, barrier wall-type system, sometimes also referred to as a face sealed system. Many of these EIFS systems in the early and mid 1990's originally may not have specified sealant installation.   However, these system in many homes with minimal roof overhangs, wood windows, and intersecting roof lines with walls, may experience moisture infiltration.  It is our opinion that these homes should be updated with a caulking installation. The integrity of this barrier should be maintained with a correctly performing sealant joint at all dissimilar materials (i.e., windows, doors, louvers, etc.) exposed to rain to prevent moisture intrusion, unless otherwise sealed by flashings. If the sealant is not maintained through some type of regular Maintenance and Inspection Program, water infiltration problems may occur over time.  The National Association of Home Builders Research Department is developing remediation methods to correct such systems and has issued a technical bulletin update. When these remediation methods are available we will post them here for public information. 

13. Sealant Joint Types:

The life expectancy of a quality polyurethane rubber sealant, correctly installed is 3 to 5 years under severe ultraviolet (sunlight) and weather extremes. In less than severe conditions, 8-10 years is likely before replacement should be considered. Silicone sealants have a longer life expectancy, and in commercial applications are still performing after 30 years, and a few come with 20 year warranties. Despite these anticipated quality performance experiences and warranties, a regular maintenance and inspection should occur to insure the integrity of the sealants.

The types of caulk used on the exterior insulation finish system have been carefully reviewed and considered by McNair Building Construction, Inc., the supplier, and the installer, and have been chosen because of their superior performance. Some stucco systems suggest one sealant or another. One of the best long time sealant performers has been the Dow Corning 790 Silicone building sealant. Dow Corning 790 sealant is a one-part multi-color silicone formulation that cures in the presence of atmospheric moisture to produce a durable, fire-resistant, flexible and ultra-low modulus silicone rubber building joint seal. Because of its ultra-low modulus, high elongation, compression/extension recovery, and its ability to form strong durable bonds with most building materials, this sealant provides excellent performance, even in building joints that experience extreme movement. This high joint movement ability allows the repair of failed joints generally with no joint widening. This sealant is virtually unaffected by sunlight, rain, sleet, snow, ultraviolet radiation, ozone and temperature extremes. Its unique weatherability enables it to retain its original design properties even after years of exposure. Joint performance does not change significantly with aging or exposure to weather. It is this unique blend of properties that enables this sealant to perform well, even in joints that experience extremes of movement.

14. Application Standards for sealants:

A thin bead of silicone sealant will accommodate more movement than a thick bead. Dow Corning 790 silicone sealant should be no thicker than 1/2 inch and no thinner than 1/8 ratio of joint to width to sealant depth should be about 2:1. Dow Corning warrants that it will perform as a watertight weather seal for a period of 20 years from the date of purchase (see manufacturer for further warranty information; above information printed from the Dow Corning 790 specification product sheet). If a joint failure occurs, replacement of that one area can be accomplished without the removal of all areas.

15. Recommended Observations of sealant/joint, roofing, skylight and flashing Performance (also see EIFS inspection guide):

Exterior Insulation Finish Systems, skylights, roofing, and flashings, when correctly detailed, installed and maintained, should not allow water migration through the wall. If water migration occurs, it would most likely occur due to the following:

· Failure of sealant at transition to dissimilar material ·

.Flashing component (wall/roof connection)-

· Window/head, jamb or sill

· Louver/Head, jamb or sill.

· Penetration through the exterior wall system

· Railing connection details

· Electrical conduit or boxes

· Utility Piping · Etc.

All leaks should be documented as to their location and whether they appear in gentle rains, or wind driven rains, and reported to the McNair Construction office, or otherwise promptly inspected and repaired in accordance with the warranty provisions.

This information, in conjunction with a thorough observation of the perimeter wall systems, roofing, flashing, skylight or roof penetration, will assist us in promptly locating the source of the leak for remedial repairs. Many times roof or skylight leaks are due to debris that has accumulated around these area and not properly cleaned, or an inexperienced individual walking on a roof and breaking or cracking shingles or otherwise damaging the roofing system.

16. Field Inspection Guide for Caulk-Joints :

    1. Observe the joint. There should be a uniform bead of sealant (uniform in width and appearance.)

    2. Observe any separation within the sealant joint.

         A. Adhesive failure-separation of sealant from dissimilar material.

        B. Cohesive failure - separation or the sealant internally.

     3. Observe aging. This is a progressive, natural change in the chemical and physical properties of the sealant material. Many polyurethane sealants are self-sacrificing. The surface is constantly wearing away and appears as a chalking or oxidation type film that is constantly washed away by rainstorms. This is normal for this material and does not in dictate failure.

    4. Observe any discoloration and/or bleeding. This may represent a defective product prematurely deteriorating.

    5. Observe deformation. This is any change of form or shape produced in a joint by a stress force.

    6. Observe cracking, crazing or alligatoring. These conditions represent a deterioration within the sealant joint induced by either excessive movement or aging.

For any additional information regarding sealants, please contact the sealant manufacturer, or McNair Building Construction, Inc.

IV. MECHANICAL SYSTEMS:

1. PLUMBING SYSTEMS Winterization:

NOTE: The winterization guidelines are suggestions only. These suggestions from the builder are not a guarantee against freeze damage.

A. Home Occupied

1. Shut-off "Common" hose bibs cutoff valve located in the garage or near the water softener loop (in wall behind access panel or in garage floor). Note: This applies only to homes provided with this feature. 2. Open "drain valve" for hose bibs (located in same location as noted in #1 above). Note: This applies only to homes provided with this, feature. 3. Drain all hose bib vacuum breakers and crank hose bibs to "on " position to allow for hose bib drain down. 4. Recommend running pencil-size stream; both hot and cold, on exterior wall fixtures On extremely cold days/nights i.e.; kitchen sink, master dressing lavatories.

B. Home Unoccupied

1. Shut down all water service valve outside, in garage or in valve box in ground "best option")

2. Turn Power "off" on all electric water heaters at the electric panel.

3. Drain all hose bib vacuum breakers and open hose bibs to allow for drain down. Open hose bib drain down valve. (in homes available with this option).

4. Open all fixture faucets/valves to allow complete drain down.

5. After drain down, close all faucets, valves within in the home ( to prevent accidental flooding should some one re charge the system) .

6. Always leave home with heat set at a reasonable temperature.

7. Add approximately one (1) cup of antifreeze to all fixture traps (tubs, toilets, tank & bowl, sinks, lavatories, shower).

NOTE: WATER SOFTENER is located in semi protected area (garage) and insure that this unit is not subjected to below freezing conditions if possible.

2. PERIODIC -MAINTENANCE (PLUMBING)

A. Refer to manufacturers literature for hot water tank flushing recommendations. Sediment will result over time in the bottom of the tank and create a rotten egg smell. This can be helped with periodic draining. Also see Hot water Heaters.

B. Annually, manually release T&P valve to allow for discharge (approximately. 30-45sec). This insures relief valve is functioning and relief line is OPEN (not clogged by insects, etc) if home is equipped with this system.

C. Monthly clean toilet tanks by adding 1/2 cup of household bleach, let sit approximately. 20min., lightly brush walls inside tank and flush 2 to 3 times.

D. DO NOT insert "stringy" foods into disposal without first cutting them into small (2" or less) pieces or they could clog the waste piping inside kitchen cabinet area.

E. NEVER flush fibrous items (feminine items, etc) in water closets.

3. GENERAL INFORMATION (PLUMBING):

A. Several Clean-outs have been installed on your drainage system. A visual inspection will familiarize you with their locations. NOTE: If your home is on a concrete slab a drawing for your drainage system will be provided, should you request it.

B. Your water distribution piping has been insulated to help insure as much protection from freezing temperatures as reasonably possible. (Exterior walls and attic areas for concrete slab construction)

C. Follow manufacturers literature for cleaning and maintaining your whirlpool tub.

D. CAUTION, should be taken when cleaning/maintaining the finish on your faucets/fixtures. Most finishes may be cleaned with a mild, nonabrasive detergent, rinsed thoroughly, and wiped dry to protect the finish. Some finishes have protective lacquer coatings (i.e.; polished brass, ant. brass, etc) . to retard discoloration, pitting, and rusting. Cleaning agents with ammonia and other lacquer dissolving agents should not be used on lacquer coated finishes. Pitting, discoloration, and/or rusting may occur once lacquer is removed or if soap is left on faucets. Contamination in your water supply may lead to finish deterioration. Even though water softeners may reduce mineral "hardness", there will still remain chemicals and certain minerals that will not be treated by your water softener system.- Therefore, we suggest you clean your plumbing fixture frequently to reduce the caustic effect your water supply" may cause on your plumbing fixtures, and. refer to your manufacturers suggestions for proper cleaning and maintaining of your particular plumbing fixture finishes.

4. ELECTRICAL (GENERAL)

· Your home is wired per your architectural plans, and any changes you may have made with the Builders' representative, but there are a few things you should be aware of when planning your electrical, and by the time you move in.

· All your bath room receptacles, weather proof receptacles and garage receptacles are on a ground fault interrupter circuit. This circuit has a tendency to throw the breaker when conditions of heavy humidity or dampness occurs. If your breaker should go off, you will see a reset button, turn the breaker to the off position, then hack to the on position. If this persists, please report this condition.

· Your kitchen receptacles are wired to handle your appliances, however, not to handle two electrical appliances on one circuit. (Such as a toaster and coffee pot) You have · approximately two to three circuits in your kitchen, so we suggest you try to split your appliances on these circuits.

· If you have a microwave, it should have its own circuit from the panel box. This should be decided upon prior to or during the wiring of your home.

· Your hot water tank and air handler in your attic are wired with a disconnect switch. So when servicemen are working on them, they do not have to go back to the panel box to shut off power. These disconnects should not be touched by any unauthorized persons.

· If your home is equipped with a whirlpool tub, it will be controlled by a ground fault circuit. This ground fault circuit is an individual circuit, separate from any other ground fault circuits. Its · operation, though, is the same as the other ground fault circuits mentioned previously. Any bath in conjunction with a whirlpool tub will also be on its own ground fault circuit. These ground fault circuits are a major safety factor and are necessary per our National Electrical Code and the Town of Hilton Head Ordinances.

· Your home will have hard wired smoke detectors installed. These will be located in the · bedroom areas of your home. These smoke detectors require little or no maintenance. The operation is completely automatic. There is, however, a test button you can push to see if the unit is operating properly, and should be tested regularly. All your attic lights, where a mechanical unit is placed are controlled by a pilot light switch to let you know when your light is on or off.

· Your telephone system is wired in a series from your service yard outside. Your television cable is wired direct to a point in your service yard. Knowing where your outlets are will help your cable and telephone serviceman. Junction box connections are provided by the appropriate utility service and not by the G.C, unless arranged in advance.

· When specified, your home will have a Junction box at the front or at the rear controlled from a wall switch for future ground lighting. This is only installed when specified on your electrical plans.

· Specified dimmers or rheostats are installed per you plans. Normally a dimmer is rated at a 600 watt maximum. This will usually handle most fixtures. If for some reason your fixture will be over a maximum of 600 watts, it will require a larger dimmer to be installed.

· When picking out paddle fans, always be sure to match your fan controls with the make of the paddle fans. This will enable your warranty to stay in effect. If the wrong fan controls are · selected, your warranty may be void.

· Your new home will normally have some floor receptacles. These are installed prior to your carpet. The carpet people will usually cut an "X" where your receptacles are. If you would like the plastic (brass is an available option) covers showing above your carpet, you should let your builder know. The following is a list of some guide lines you should use when planning the wiring of your new home:

· Will the standard dimmers handle our fixtures? Do we want Do we need additional circuits for any additional appliances? any additional dimmers? · Do the fan controls match with the paddle fans selected? · Do we have a junction box for our future ground lights or · lamp post? · Have we made any selections for the Fixtures by Owner ? · Have we gone over electrical layout with our Builder or · Electrical Contractor? · Do we understand our basic electrical functions? · Have we decided on locations for special fixtures?

I'm sure that there will be more questions that come to mind, but we hope that this will help you understand your electrical installation a little better.

5. HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (GENERAL):

Annually or semi-annually the air handler unit (typically located in the attic) should be checked by a qualified technician for the following:

1. Check and adjust operating pressures. 2. Inspect motors and bearings and lubricate if necessary. 3. Check and clean the condensation drain system (pour a 50/50 mix of water and bleach into the trap/cap drain located next to the air-handler unit as located and reviewed at the time of the final inspection). 4. Check oil in compressors. 5. Check filters and dryers for possible failure 6. Replace or clean filters (based on the type of filter). 7. Check and tighten electrical controls and insure they are working properly. 8. Check safety controls to insure they are working properly. 9. If you have chosen to install any of the optional HVAC air quality improvement equipment, insure they are operating properly.  10. Review the complete recommended maintenance options listed on the service contract with the professionals offering the service.

V. MIRRORS AND SPECIAL GLASS :

1. MIRRORS:

· To ensure the best mirror protection in hot, humid climates, such as Hilton Head and the Low Country, mirrors should be installed after air conditioning has been turned on.

· 2. The best and safest cleaner for a mirror is clean, warm water used with a soft cloth. Be careful not to allow the edges of the mirror to get or remain wet over a period of time.

· Never spray any cleaner directly onto a mirror. Instead apply the cleaner to a soft cloth and then wipe the mirror. This will prevent "puddling" at the mirror edge where the cleaner could attack the backing. Always use a soft, grit-free cloth when cleaning a mirror to reduce chances of scratching the surface. Do not use cleaners with heavy ammonia bases as they can cause oxidation and damage to the mirror edges and backing.

2. SPECIAL INSULATED GLASS UNITS (see window warranties for more info)

American Flat Glass distributors warrants it's Insulating Glass units against material obstruction to vision due to defects in material or workmanship which results in film formation or dust collection on the interior glass surfaces caused exclusively from the failure of the hermetic seal, other than through glass breakage, for a period of five years from the date of manufacture. Because glass is so easily broken, it is important that it be inspected upon receipt to be sure that it is in good condition. Following the industry standard, the builder will be unable to honor any claim for glass damage unless such damage is noted on the delivery ticket at the time of delivery. Tempered glass may break (shatter) without apparent cause, and there is no guarantee against this occurrence. Tempered glass may break or shatter at any time due to a sharp hit by a child or a golf ball.

3. HEATING AND GLASS:

Never allow heat to be directed against the insulating glass unit as certain weather conditions will encourage breakage due to large temperature differentials. Excess heat could also cause edge sealant failure.

Never allow the sash or frames to contain an abnormal amount of heat which may be transferred to the glass. Keep ducts at least 4 to 6" from glass surface. Careful attention should be paid to heavy metal or concrete heat sinks.

4. DRAPERIES AND LOCATION RELATIVE TO INSULATED GLASS:

Drapes should be separated by 6" on the inside pane of glass and drapery backing to allow for proper circulation of air around the glass. Also, allow 2" between the top of drapes and the ceiling and walls as well as 1" at the bottom.

5. REFLECTIVE FILMS:

Reflective films must not be painted on or laminated to the interior pane.

6. SKYLIGHTS AND CONDENSATION:

Typically, single sheet glass with no special films has an R-Value of around 1. Hermetically sealed insulating glass has an R-value of 2.0 or less. With an outside temperature of zero, the dew-point temperature at which condensation can occur is reached when the relative humidity exceeds 41 percent. Weather the glass is single pane, double pane, or triple pane, at any of those levels, condensation will occur on the interior side of the skylights. A significant contributing factor is the stratification of air and moisture in a home during winter months, since warm air rises, long and stagnant skylight wells will tend to accelerate the condensation due to the temperature and humidity differences. It is likely that the underside of the skylight glass is no more than 75 degrees. The inside glass surface of the skylight will always be significantly cooler, at which point a dew point can be reached and condensation will occur. The builder suggests that skylight wells be watched and mildew or nearby surfaces be cleaned regularly to prevent or kill mildew as it might develop. Never install wall-covering in these areas next to skylight glass.

7. SHOWER DOORS:

We highly recommend that when an Owner has a clear or tinted shower door, a product called Rain-X be used on the glass to assist the water in sheeting off during showers, or a squeegee be used to extract the water drop remnants after taking a shower. If water is left on the glass, it will tend to leave mineral deposits and etch the glass. Rain-X is proven to be the easiest method.

VI. OTHER INTERIOR FINISHES:

Cultured marble is another product that can be affected by the mineral deposits left after our Low-Country water has evaporated. We suggest that a high quality automotive wax be applied to cultured marble surfaces to assist in the protection of these surfaces on a regular basis as needed.

Repainting or touch-up of portions of a surface (walls, ceilings, trim, cabinets, etc.) which are 4 months or older from the date of the original painting of the surface may be attempted, but most paints and stains will not touch-up to a point where they are unnoticeable. Colors will fade, yellow, and change from their originally applied color and gloss after they are first applied. Touch-up of certain surfaces can be attempted, however, the trade-off of such an attempt must be weighed by the owner and appropriate conclusion made as to the validity and importance of a particular surface touch-up. In no event shall the Builder be responsible for touch-up painting not matching after even a period of 4 months or more from the date of the original application. All left-over and unused paints and stains will remain with the house. It is recommended that the paints and stains be relocated from the attic to a conditioned space so as to lengthen the life of the unused materials.

VII. EXTERIOR DOORS WITH ADJUSTABLE THRESHOLDS OR HINGES:

Many of your exterior doors are adjustable. The sills that are adjustable can be noticed due to the large screws in the center of the oak thresholds. Over time, the doors and thresholds may settle into a state of equalization, but this state may be different than it was at the time of the punch-list or installation. These thresholds are adjustable, and should be inspected regularly to insure that they maintain a tight weather seal. Some of the Hurd door units are adjustable at the hinges of the jamb and are adjustable with a simple screw driver. These hinges also adjust the doors against the jamb so care should be taken when attempting to perform these adjustments. The exposed oak thresholds should be sealed on a regular basis since the wood will absorb water if not properly sealed, and since they are a surface that receives wear, they should be checked and sealed regularly with a high quality marine varnish, or stain with sealant included.

VIII  HOT WATER HEATERS

HOW TO DRAIN YOUR WATER HEATER

(For general information only. Please refer to your manufacturer’s instructions for possible variations and safety considerations).

STEP 1:    For electrical water heaters:  Shut off electricity to the water heater at the circuit breaker or the fuse box.

                  WARNING: ELECTRICITY MUST BE OFF AT ALL TIMES WHILE  THE TANK IS EMPTY. For gas water heaters:  Turn the gas control knob to the “OFF” position.  If you are not familiar with procedures for relighting your gas water heater, please consult a plumber or a natural gas supplier.   

STEP 2:    Give water a chance to cool down—one hour or more.  

STEP 3:    Shut off the cold water supply to the water heater, using the cold water shut-off valve.  (See illustration). 

STEP 4:    Open the hot water faucet in the kitchen and/or bathroom.  Leave open while draining the water heater. 

STEP 5:    Connect a hose to the drain valve on the bottom of the water heater.  (See  Illustration Below). Route hose to an adequate drain area.

STEP 6:    Open the drain valve. (See illustration). 

CAUTION:  DRAIN WATER IS HOT.  DO NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH DRAIN WATER. 

STEP 7:    When the water heater has completely drained, open the cold water supply valve to the water heater for 30 to 60 seconds, then shut off.

STEP 8:    Check water coming out of the drain hose for clarity.  

STEP 9:    Continue Steps 7 and 8 until water is clear. 

STEP 10:  Once flush water (Step 8) is clear, your heater is clean. 

STEP 11:  Close drain valve on bottom of tank and remove the drain hose. 

STEP 12:  Open cold water supply valve (Reverse of Step 3).  As your water heater fills,  you will notice air escaping from the kitchen and/or bathroom faucets.  Leave  these outlets open until there is a steady flow of water.

STEP 13:  Close the kitchen and/or bathroom faucets. 

STEP 14:  For electrical water heaters:  Turn on electricity to the water heater at the circuit breaker or the fuse box. Hot water should be available in 30 to 45 minutes.          For gas water heaters:  Follow manufacturer’s lighting instructions to restart the gas water heater.  

McNair Building Construction, Inc. makes no warranties or representations and assumes no liability for physical injury or property damage in any way related to or arising out of the above procedures or the draining of your water heater.  Always consult your manufacturer’s instructions for safety procedures before draining your water heater.  

SUMMARY:

We thank you for choosing McNair Building Construction, Inc. as your builder. We truly appreciate the opportunity to build your new home. If you ever have questions about your home, we are here to help you. We're just a phone call away.

THANK YOU.

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Last modified: September 24, 2008